Editor’s note: Like Sam, I was also in Hong Kong for a single day, although mine came after ending a cruise more than ten years ago. It was a time before the current ongoing political saga with mainland China cracking down on some of the city’s freedoms. In that light, while I would love to go back, I might be a bit more hesitant. But Sam is right; it is an incredible place. For more of Sam Spector’s writing, click here to visit his index page.
There are so many great cities in the world to visit; however, what makes a city more than a great city, but a “global city”? A global city is a major urban center that has an impact on the rest of the world through economics, culture, politics, trade, and travel. Some examples of places that I would classify as global cities include San Francisco, New York, London, Paris, Dubai, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Even if you do not plan a trip to a global city, there is a good chance that you will fly through them if you do enough global travel on your way to somewhere else. As you might know if you have read enough of my articles, while many people understandably like to get to their final destination as quickly as possible, I often find it fun to stop for a day or two on a long layover on my journey. Doing such led me to visit another global city for a day: Hong Kong.
Hong Kong was for a long time a British territory until it was handed over to China in 1997, and while it is today considered a part of China, it is designated as a special administrative region. What this means is that Hong Kong has its own economy and currency, its own political process and elections, its own flag and its own team in the Olympics. Hong Kong and mainland China call themselves “One Country, Two Systems,” though there are regularly clashes when locals feel that the mainland is imposing itself a bit too forcefully on Hong Kong. After all, Hong Kong is doing well being separate and it is understandable it wants autonomy from Beijing. The Hong Kong Dollar is the 9th most traded currency on Earth, Hong Kong is the ninth largest exporter and eight largest importer, it has the highest life expectancy of any city in the world, it is third largest global financial center after New York and London, it is eighth on the global Human Development Index (highest in Asia), and Hong Kong has the third most billionaires of any city. Despite having humble roots as a fishing and farming town, with 7.5 million people, Hong Kong has become the fourth-most densely populated urban area in the world and has more skyscrapers than any other city (569, while #3 New York City has 324).
I flew to Hong Kong from Los Angeles en route to Bangkok and took the opportunity to explore this important city. While 92% of the city is of Chinese heritage, English is widely spoken due to its global influence and longtime status as a British territory. From the Hong Kong airport, there is an easy train ride to take you right into the heart of the city. This train ride is one of the most spectacular half-hour trains that I have ever been on and it lets you know that you are in for a treat. As you near Hong Kong, you see that you are surrounded by green mountains, beautiful harbors, and massive skyscrapers. Upon arrival in Hong Kong, the first thing that you should do is go up Victoria Peak on the Peak Tram. The Peak stands at over 1800 feet tall and provides views of Central Hong Kong, Victoria Harbor, and Lamma Island. The summit of the peak has radio telecommunication towers and on the mountain are large mansions of Hong Kong’s wealthiest residents. Only the British, and not native Chinese, were allowed to live in this prestigious neighborhood until World War I ended. At the Peak is also a shopping center called Peak Tower, which is shaped like a wok.
Below Victoria Peak, you will notice double decker busses and the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong going on. There is a unique way to cut through the town, especially with all of its steep hills. Hong Kong is home to the longest set of outdoor escalators in the world, the Central-Mid-Level Escalators, which stretch 2600 feet in distance (about half a mile). These covered escalators give opportunities to get off at different areas and ascend 443 feet in elevation. It is a fascinating way to see the city, including peeking into local shops and homes that are next to the escalator. Hong Kong, which is humid and feels somewhat tropical, also has banyan trees that you can admire during this escalator ride.
In this part of the town, which feels so modern, there is a throwback to old Chinese culture that is worth seeing to get a sense of the historic culture of Hong Kong, the Man Mo Temple Complex. This complex is made up of three temples and spans a few blocks, with the Man Mo Temple being the primary temple. This temple is dedicated to the Chinese folk god of literature Man Tai and the martial god Mo Tai. The temple was built in 1893 and is the oldest temple in the city and is decorated in traditional Chinese temple fashion with Chinese lettering and red and gold decorations. This temple has been historically important for students praying to do well on their exams and is still frequented by the faithful to this day when they are in need of additional luck.
Following your visit to the western part of Hong Kong Island, take a Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to the Kowloon Peninsula. The Star Ferry costs only a few Hong Kong dollars (about 50 cents American) to go across and gives stunning views of the city and harbor. While in the harbor, you will likely see traditional junk boats, wooden three-masted boats with red sails that were part of the traditional fishing culture. Today, you can take tours of Victoria Harbor in these antique vessels. At the ferry terminals are several hawker food stands selling traditional and affordable meals; however, with only one day in Hong Kong, I went a bit ritzier and headed to the Peninsula Hotel, a 5-star luxury colonial hotel in the Tsim Sha Tsui neighborhood near Kowloon Park. While I was horribly underdressed and expected to get turned away, I was surprised to be allowed into the hotel for their famous English-style Afternoon Tea, a throwback to the colonial era of Hong Kong. Apparently, there is no strict dress code for lunch and tea, but around dinner time, there is a strict dress code. While I arrived as a solo traveler, I found a young woman in line who was also a solo traveler to couple up with me for the experience as the tea is typically for two people. Servers bring out towers of sweet and savory dishes for finger food that one would have with tea, in addition to the tea itself, while live jazz music is played in the background. One of the more famous features of the hotel is its fleet of Rolls Royce cars in front of the car, many of which are in their trademark “Peninsula Green” color.
Near the Peninsula Hotel is the Harbor City shopping center, where you can easily spend a couple of hours, but I walked through it quickly to arrive at yet another luxury hotel, the Ritz-Carlton. When it was opened in 2011, the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong was the tallest hotel in the world (since surpassed by the Shanghai Tower) at 1608 feet and 118 stories. On the 102nd floor is a Michelin Star Italian restaurant and on the 118th floor is the Ozone Bar, which touted itself as the world’s tallest bar. The hotel also has a swimming pool on the 118th floor, giving it the Guinness Book of World Records distinction of the world’s highest swimming pool. In the Ozone Bar, grab a drink and watch the sunset over the harbor and some of Hong Kong’s 263 islands; you cannot ask for a better or higher view while enjoying an evening cocktail.
With only a day in Hong Kong, I got a pretty good feel for the city. However, I would love to go back and stay longer. I did not get to experience Hong Kong’s legendary nightlife or try its many famous restaurants, fancy and casual. I also would love to get out of the city and see the traditional fishing villages on the outskirts of town and see the Big Buddha of Lantau Island. However, I do not despair on missing out, with Hong Kong being a global city, I have a suspicion that I will likely find myself there again.
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