Editor’s note: I first visited Yosemite as a child, and have been back close to a dozen times, including three since starting The Royal Tour. It is a place unlike anywhere I’ve ever visited, a place of dreams. (Also a place of crowds, but such is the trade off.) Here, Jackie adds her own experiences to our trove of Yosemite content, based on her almost yearly visits. It’s a great guide for anyone interested in making a trip to this crown jewel of the national parks system. For more of Jackie’s writing, click here to visit her index page.

The first time I was in Yosemite I was with my 9th grade science class (I am not counting, but lots of years ago!).  When we went through the tunnel and first saw the iconic view of the valley, I was sold.  I quickly convinced my father to take me again and later my mom, dad, sister and I went one more time.  I went there on my honeymoon with my first husband and then again with my second.  And I have been there many times since!

We went again this May.  In our opinion, May (before Memorial Day and during the midweek) is the best time to go because most kids are still in school, there is less snow so roads are open, and usually the waterfalls are full. 

What to See

We always stop at the Mariposa Grove of Sequoia trees either on our way into or out of the park (entering from highway 41).  Some of these magnificent trees are very old, with the Grizzly Giant estimated to be between 2000 and 3000 years old. It is over 200 feet tall, 28 feet in diameter and 96 feet in circumference at its base!  The big branch a bit more than half way up is 7 feet in diameter, bigger than most other tree trunks.  The walk to the Grizzly Giant is under a mile each way and not very steep, and one passes a number of gorgeous Sequoia trees (notice their red bark) as well as the stumps of a few, to give one an idea of just how large these trees are/were.   There is lots of signage along the path, explaining the flora and fauna.

Near the majestic (but currently closed for renovation as of this writing) Wawona Hotel, is a historical area, including a covered bridge over the south fork of the Merced River, displays of old wagons, and a number of old cabins, many of which were moved here from other park locations.  There is also a visitor center combined with Thomas Hill’s studio.  He was a 19th century painter; many of his paintings were of Yosemite. 

Past Wawona is the road to Glacier Point.  This is a very winding 16 miles each way road, but at the end is a spectacular view of Yosemite Valley, in particular of Half Dome and Vernal and Nevada Falls.

Stopping at the tunnel view is essential for any visit to Yosemite.  There is a parking lot right after passing through the tunnel.  This view shows the granite cliffs of El Capitan on the left and Half Dome in the center back. The waterfall on the right is Bridal Veil.  If this view doesn’t make you fall in love with Yosemite, nothing will! 

As one drives down into Yosemite Valley (from the tunnel), Bridal Veil Falls is the first waterfall one sees, provided one goes fairly early in the season.  Bridal Veil shrinks appreciably in late summer and fall.  It is 620 feet tall.  In a year with lots of snow, the falls are very full, spraying a strong mist at anyone nearby and even flooding parts of the parking lot.  There is a short path to the bottom of the falls.

Vernal and Nevada falls are on the Merced River; both are visible from Glacier Point, but not from the tunnel view nor the Valley floor.  I hiked Vernal with my science class many moons ago via the Mist Trail and since then a number of other times.  A few years ago, we hiked to the bridge where one can first see Vernal Falls.  This is about 1.6 miles round trip with 400 feet of elevation gain, while all the way to the top of Vernal Falls is 2.5 miles round trip and a total of 1000 feet of elevation gain. I have also hiked to the top of Nevada falls (5-6 miles round trip, 2000 feet of elevation gain) a couple of times (but not recently).  Vernal is 317 feet tall and Nevada is 594 feet tall.  Neither dry up in summer.

Happy Isles (where one can start the hike to Vernal and Nevada falls) has a small visitor center and some nice walks on the little islands in the Merced River.  One can see the power of the river along and between the islands.  It also has some signs showing visitors how chunks of granite have broken loose from the cliffs at various times.

The last major falls in the valley is Yosemite Falls, which has an upper fall (1430 feet), middle cascades (675 feet), and lower fall (320 feet).  Yosemite Falls is visible from the valley and one can easily walk to the base of the lower falls. 

Along the roads, depending upon the time of year, there can be lots of flowers as well as beautiful trees.  This meadow of lupine was just along the main road.

There are many other scenic places within the park including Mirror Lake (used to be a lake year-round, but now only seasonally), other trails, and the high country (accessed by Tioga Road).  The latter is usually closed due to snow until late spring or summer, but has beautiful lakes and meadows. 

Where to Stay and Logistics

The last few visits, we have stayed in Yosemite West, which is off the Wawona Road, not too far from the road to Glacier Point.  Hence, you don’t have the crowds (and costs) of staying in the Valley, but you are in the park so don’t have to drive in and out every day.  This year the lines to get into the park have been reported to be long (they are not limiting admissions), but since we went in on a Tuesday in the late morning, we only waited about 20 minutes.  We rented a studio cabin (Fiske Studio), which was lovely and ample for us.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunset from the balcony of the studio. The owner did much of the woodwork himself, including the lovely headboard.  We brought food and cooked it there.

There are no stores, nor any amenities, in Yosemite West.  There are several different types of accommodations and restaurants in the Valley.  Wawona has a store which sells some food, and a gas station.  Outside the south entrance, there are places to stay and eat in Fish Camp, Oakhurst, and Coarsegold.  There are also places to stay outside the west entrance in El Portal and Mariposa.

There is a shuttle bus to the Mariposa Grove from a parking lot adjacent to the park’s south entrance (from Highway 41).  There are two bus systems in the Valley (none from Yosemite West) that go to various places of interest.  Some of the buses were very crowded (even on a Wednesday, prior to Memorial Day!) and, at times, could not take everyone who was waiting.  They are supposed to run every 10-20 minutes, but one time we had to wait 45 minutes. 

I hope this article gives you a taste as to why my husband and I love Yosemite.  If you have never visited, put it on your bucket list.

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