This isn’t an article about food. I mean, yes, it is an article about food. But it’s so much more than that.

The concept for this was originally to write about Flavors, a celebration of the culinary traditions of the island. So I set about to try all sorts of restaurants, from casual to more formal, with a range of cuisines and offerings. But what I found was so much more than just great meals.

What I got was stories. And it’s those stories I’m trying to share with you today. Because the truth is, you can get amazing food all over the island – and you will. But what you’ll also get, if you’re open to it, is the chance to connect. From servers to owners, from other patrons to random passers-by, smiles, hugs, greetings, and life stories await. And that’s even better than good food and cocktails.

These are just a few of the many MANY incredible meals I’ve had on this island, and just a few of the even more amazing people I’ve been lucky enough to meet. I am so grateful to be able to share them with you.

So no, this is not an article about food. It’s an article about connection, with food as the vehicle to do so.

This is just part one, where we explore the food scene in Philipsburg. Part two will come out in a couple days, focusing on areas outside the capital.

Carl and Son’s

If you’re in Philipsburg and looking for a quality bakery, look no further than Carl and Son’s on the busy Walter A Nisbeth Road. (They have a second location in Cole Bay, as well.) While it only has a couple tables, the place is a nearly constant flow of morning takeaway traffic, and after having had my breakfast here, I can absolutely understand why.

Carl and Son’s is an institution, having been in business since 1982 (which in a place like this is almost forever), and bakes daily fresh bread, pastries, and more. I have a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich on their homemade bread to go with my coffee, and follow it with a lovely chocolate croissant. I’m so impressed that a slice of coconut tart accompanies me back to my hotel for later!

One note of warning; if you want the bakery’s insanely amazing Johnny cakes, arrive early. They sell out before 9 – and sometimes well earlier – just about every day.

Big Bastard’s

I don’t think I’ve ever laughed so much reading a menu than when I first sit down at Big Bastard’s on the Philipsburg beach boardwalk. Owner Marcel is originally from Canada, and he tells me that he’s going for an edgy, tongue-in-cheek sort of vibe. He succeeds.

Canadian-Caribbean hybrid beach bar food isn’t something most people think of, but let me tell you, one bite of the Caribbean lobster poutine will have you wishing this existed everywhere. I pair it with a “F*cked by a Bastard,” a cocktail of vodka, coconut rum, blue Curacao, and juices. If I lived here, this would be a weekly staple in my existence.

The best part? Marcel’s attitude. He wants that edgy banter with his guests, and to give them the dream Caribbean beach day they will never forget. “We have the opportunity to make your holiday,” he says, smiling. Give him that chance and you won’t regret it!

Seaview Beach Hotel

You might think I’m crazy to suggest eating a meal at a hotel. Well, after coming here, you’ll no longer think so, both for the food and for the place itself.

Seaview has the best location on the Philipsburg boardwalk, and a stunning pool deck overlooking the beach. Here, people watching will blend with sunshine, sand, and some awesome Dutch treats. Bitterballen (a sort of Dutch fried meatball), kibeling (fried fish bites), and more… all make for a totally unique beach dining experience.

Don’t forget to grab a pint of hotel owner John’s Pelikaan beer, a local micro-brewery. Or head to the connected DoubleDutch for my favorite iced coffee on the island.

The property also features marketplaces selling useful items and snacks, as well as work from local artists. Trust me; there’s a reason this is my home when I stay on the island.

The Pier

On the western end of Philipsburg’s beach boardwalk, there is a pier. And just at the base where that pier meets the boardwalk is a beach bar called, appropriately, The Pier. Another family owned business here in a town – and a country – that embraces that small business culture, The Pier offers a fun and eclectic vibe, and some darn good food.

The covered patio has cool accents ranging from license plates to a life-sized Elvis, colored lights, and hanging fake fish. And across the boardwalk on the beach, The Pier also has picnic table cabanas!

As for food? The Latin inspirations are the thing to go for. I have mahi tacos and a shrimp quesadilla, paired with a fresh guava juice. Whether lunch or dinner, that’s a meal I can always get behind! And seriously, I’ve never had so much fish inside a fish taco. What a great meal with a great view and a great vibe.

Dutch Blonde

What is one of the best things about being on a Dutch island? Dutch pancakes, of course! Dutch Blonde is hard to miss, sitting behind the windmill on Philipsburg’s boardwalk, and that – along with a sign advertising pancakes – drew me in on my first visit to Sint Maarten. And now it’s a must-visit each time I’m here.

Owner Sunil is always working on something, and part of the fun for me is seeing what new project he is doing. A speakeasy behind a bookshelf is now open. Guided rum tastings are on the way, joining an existing French wine and Dutch cheese tasting session. Beer, whiskey, pancakes… it seems he does it all, and is always looking for something new to create for his guests.

My go-to is the apple, bacon, and cheese pancake, which is too big to fit into a single photo. Paired with a mango coconut frozen drink, I’m a happy camper, even though I’m normally too full to add a sweet pancake afterward.

This island is special. The food is amazing, and it is varied. But it’s the people, the stories, the connection that you’ll love even more. So come taste the Friendly Island.

Thank you to every restaurant that participated in my experience, and to everyone who trusted me to share their stories. And thank you especially to Visit St. Maarten for arranging this entire itinerary!

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