This isn’t an article about food. I mean, yes, it is an article about food. But it’s so much more than that.

The concept for this was originally to write about Flavors, a celebration of the culinary traditions of the island. So I set about to try all sorts of restaurants, from casual to more formal, with a range of cuisines and offerings. But what I found was so much more than just great meals.

What I got was stories. And it’s those stories I’m trying to share with you today. Because the truth is, you can get amazing food all over the island – and you will. But what you’ll also get, if you’re open to it, is the chance to connect. From servers to owners, from other patrons to random passers-by, smiles, hugs, greetings, and life stories await. And that’s even better than good food and cocktails.

These are just a few of the many MANY incredible meals I’ve had on this island, and just a few of the even more amazing people I’ve been lucky enough to meet. I am so grateful to be able to share them with you.

So no, this is not an article about food. It’s an article about connection, with food as the vehicle to do so.

This is part two, exploring Sint Maarten outside of the capital Philipsburg. For part one, click here.

Little Bay

Freedom Fighter’s Ital Shack

If you don’t know it’s here, it would be easy to miss this small but mighty local gem despite its vivid colors. But once you have been, you’ll never drive between the airport and Philipsburg again without noticing, and probably stopping in. Run by Roland “Ras Bushman” Joe and his son, the simple home cooked food is outdone only by the mission of the Freedom Fighters Foundation, which inspired the restaurant.

The menu is simple: a daily soup, a daily platter, Caribbean patties, and juices. There is no scheduled daily dish, either; it all depends on what whoever is doing the cooking that day is inspired to make. But it’s all flavors of the Caribbean, it’s all 100% plant-based, and it’s all incredible. My platter of brown rice and bean stew comes with veggie fritters, plantains, and greens, and paired with mango-ginger juice it is comforting and filling. As Joe says, “we eat meat, just not flesh.” He is right; the beans are plenty meaty!

This place and its foundation – which seeks to educate locals of all ages about music, culture, and agriculture – is so amazing that even Anthony Bourdain himself has been here. So don’t just take my word for it!

Simpson Bay/Cole Bay

Zee Best Breakfast and Lunch

If you find yourself in Simpson Bay, whether because you’re staying there, hitting the beach, or grabbing the tour at Toppers Rhum Distillery, and you find yourself in need of some brunch, Zee Best is not falsely advertising itself. Owner Dominic hails originally from Montreal, but after taking over this institution 21 years ago, he’s as local now as local gets. (The restaurant itself just celebrated 42 years, so Dominic has now been running it for half its storied life.)

Strong coffee is always a good start, and pairs with the extensive menu. Options range from omelets and crepes to awesome looking pancakes (I drool as they pass by) and other breakfast staples. I enjoy huevos rancheros (the salsa is seriously great) and an egg white omelet with spinach, veggies, and salmon on their shaded patio.

It should be noted that Zee Best is cash only, but with food this good and the dollar being the currency here, you won’t have an issue. 

Catch 21

Located in the Port de Plaisance resort, Catch 21 is half seafood fine dining restaurant and half quirky sports bar. Upcycled ocean-themed decor and a long row of televisions compete with a second story view that reaches to the Simpson Bay marina.

While everything on the menu looks good, it’s the seafood that is the star here. I get tuna tataki (the seaweed salad it comes with is almost as good as the fish) and bang bang shrimp (fried with a spicy aioli). Portions are large, and I struggle to finish.

Maho Beach

Tortuga Maho

Maho Beach is one of the most unique beaches in the world, with planes landing just over it. But if you want a break from the sand and the jet engines, head to Tortuga Maho. From here, you can still see and hear the planes, but you’ll swap jet fumes for strong cocktails and truly amazing beach bar food.

Candice is the manager. She’s from the French side of the island, and patiently lets me practice my lousy French, and then recommends the fresh caught mahi mahi. I have it two ways, one fried with a homemade tartar sauce that’s out of this world, and one as a burger. Delightful. 

And this isn’t just a bar for drinking. The food is truly amazing, and Tortuga offers stunning mocktails as well. So if you have kids who want to get food and drinks while watching the planes land, this is your spot!

Spices of India

The moment you step into this restaurant on the Maho strip and are greeted by Chandan and Arti, you’ll be family. Seriously, I share the place with regulars – both locals and visitors who come every time they are on the island – and the owners of Spices of India are on a first name basis with all of them.

Chandan was in the jewelry business after moving here from India, but after Hurricane Irma, he decided to open a restaurant of the same name as one his brother runs on Antigua. And let me tell you, Sint Maarten is better for the career change, because Spices of India can hold its own with Indian restaurants anywhere in the world!

With a huge menu, it’s hard to figure out what to try, so I end up with two samplers: one vegetarian and one non-vegetarian, along with garlic naan, papadam, and homemade lemonade. Everything – seriously, everything – is incredible, but if I had to pick a single standout it’s the paneer with a marinade of mint, cilantro, and green chilis. Oh, the chicken here is halal, for those who keep to that standard.

Roma

Marco has been on Sint Maarten for 25 years now, but he is still as Italian as can be. That is a good thing, as his excitement for his restaurant and the amazing food they serve is evident in both his speech and his hand gestures. 

Roma is in the heart of the Maho strip, a terrific mixture of indoor and outdoor seating, with a huge menu of pasta, meat and seafood, and Italian favorites. But it’s the pizza oven, one Marco specially imported from Salerno, that provides what I think the restaurant does best. Mine is crispy and soft at the same time, with spicy Italian salami and mushrooms. It is easily large enough to share.

Italian wines, limoncello, quality espresso… if you crave these things, Roma is your home here on the island, a place you’ll return over and over. And from the way the staff greets the locals who join the tourists for a crowded dinner service, those return guests are frequent!

This island is special. The food is amazing, and it is varied. But it’s the people, the stories, the connection that you’ll love even more. So come taste the Friendly Island. 

Thank you to every restaurant that participated in my experience, and to everyone who trusted me to share their stories. And thank you especially to Visit St. Maarten for arranging this entire itinerary!

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