Waking up in Canmore is one of those “we aren’t in Kansas anymore” moments. Sitting in the valley created by the Bow River in the Canadian Rockies, tall snow-capped crags tower on both sides of town. The easy highlight is the Three Sisters, a trio of peaks ranging from 8800 to 9600 feet. On a crisp morning, it is a sight to behold.

Canmore, a town of about 17000, is just off the Trans-Canada Highway, 90 minutes or so west of Calgary, Alberta. But it is its location mere minutes from the entrance to Banff National Park that makes it more than just a tiny dot on a map.

For visitors to Banff, there are numerous options for lodging, ranging from those in Banff or Lake Louise villages inside the park (or a splurge at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise on the shore) to being a bit further outside. For me, saving a bit of money staying in Canmore means more available to do things here in Banff – and to eat well on the way.

I’ve chosen Canmore Rocky Mountain Inn for my home base here in the Banff area. There was no more thought given than price (reasonable), accommodations (needing a room with two beds), location (just off the highway and in proximity to restaurants), and luck (it popped up first on a search), but I have only positive things to say about the experience, from strong coffee in the morning to a wine reception in the evening, excellent service and local recommendations, and a comfortable room.

Once in the Banff region, one has to decide how best to explore. While in summer 2026, park admission was free due to a Canada Strong promotion, driving to some of the most popular parts of the national park is either difficult (lack of parking, mainly) or impossible for private vehicles. So I had endeavored to book a shuttle run by Banff that would take me from Lake Louise village to both Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. (Moraine Lake is one of the places private vehicles are not allowed.) Unfortunately, by the time I logged in to purchase that pass about a half hour after it went on sale, it was sold out. So I was left to find other options.

Logging into Viator, I found other companies that run a similar itinerary. The plus side: it goes in and out of Canmore, so I wouldn’t have to drive. The down side: a tour means lack of flexibility on itinerary as participants are given about 90 minutes at each lake. Fortunately, it ended up working out pretty perfectly, with the time being just enough to do what I had wanted to at each spot.

Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are considered two of the most beautiful lakes, not only in Banff, but in the world. Between the backdrop of stunning mountains and the insanely bright turquoise color of the water, they are unmistakable and unique. That color is due to refraction of light at the blue end of the spectrum off of incredibly fine rock sediment deposited into the lakes by the glacial runoff that feeds them. Basically, the intense pressure of glacial ice over millennia has led to this chalky sediment found in no other form. It’s why glacial ice sometimes looks blue, a feat reproduced in these lakes that are filled from runoff that carried it along.

Tours will do the two lakes in either order so as to not crowd (I’m guessing it’s assigned rather than a conscious choice by individual drivers), and drop guests off, to pick them up again later on. Food isn’t included, so be sure to pack snacks for what ends up being about a 6 hour day.

Neither lake is huge. Moraine Lake is about .2 square miles, while Lake Louise is larger at .3. Lake Louise, however, is much deeper, reaching 230 feet! More importantly, both have pathways going down their lengths from the parking area to the right of the lake (looking at it from the direction of parking) that can be done in and out in your 90 minutes if you move with pace and intention. (The paths are mainly flat and well maintained.)

It is worth, however, giving up reaching the very end of Moraine Lake to take 20 minutes to climb the short (but steep, although with good stone steps) Rock Piles trail for the view from up above.

(Note: despite the clarity of the water and its color, glacial water is NOT potable without treatment due to the sediment and bacteria carried within glacial ice. Unless you’re a friendly local beaver who comes out to say hi. Beavers can drink what they want.)

While the two lakes are the most popular individual things to do in Banff National Park, in a space of more than 2500 square miles, they are not nearly the only things. The park is absolutely full of amazing hiking trails for all levels. I opt for a morning hike to the top of Tunnel Mountain, just outside of Banff village. (In fact, the lower parking lot – the larger of the two; the upper only has a few spots – is basically inside town.

If you’re looking for a trail that offers peace and quiet, Tunnel Mountain is not it. The trail is popular year round, and though it rates out as moderate for some early steep switchbacks, two hours should easily allow you to go up and back.

Views begin mainly over town, with the Banff Springs Hotel – another Fairmont chateau – visible through the shady trees. But as you get higher, vistas open across the remainder of the Bow River Valley.

At the peak (roughly 5500 feet for those keeping score, although even from the lower lot you’ll only climbs about 1200 feet of that), there are iconic red chairs for Instagram, signs talking about the area, and a bare rock face to sit on looking back down at Banff.

There are even some beautiful walks in Canmore itself. Quarry Lake, created out of an old surface coal mine – coal was once the overwhelming source of employment in the town; that now belongs to tourism – is a beautiful easy walk with some lovely mountain reflections, although parking comes with a rather steep fee.

If you do decide to base yourself in Canmore, I want to give out a couple quick restaurant recommendations. Chez Francois was my breakfast spot for both mornings, and I was quite pleased both times. My best “other” meals came at Wild Orchid Bistro, a gluten free Asian restaurant, and BLAKE, a brewhouse on the other side of town.

While I only had two days in Canmore and Banff, I would happily have spent another week, not running out of beauty and exercise. I will be back, and hopefully soon!

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