It is like nothing else I have ever seen, like nowhere I have ever visited. From the terraces (rooftops) of Milan’s cathedral, the Duomo di Milano, my view is incredible, both of the building itself and its signature 135 slender spires, and of the city as a whole. Each step, every turn, brings a new perspective on the geometry, a sighting of a new set of statues, a fascinating gargoyle, and a panorama of Italy’s second largest city beyond.

The odds are likely that if you find yourself here in Milan, or planning a trip here, you have the Duomo as your single must-see. And rightly so. And just as likely, your day will include a walk to the nearby Castello Sforzesco (Sforza Castle). Again, that is only right. These are Milan’s two top sights in the opinion of this writer, and together they tell a story of Milan’s time in the sun, historically speaking. (I might argue that the city’s best days are its current ones, but that’s a story for another time.)

Milan dates to Roman times, and even a bit before. Remnants of these ancient days are all over, though not nearly as prevalent or as impressive as in Rome. But it is in the Middle Ages that Milan came into its own, as a city-state and as the Duchy of Milan. From roughly the eleventh century until the sixteenth, Milan was a self-governing entity, a seat of power here in northern Italy in a similar mold to Florence to the south. It is during this time that the two most impressive structures in the city were constructed: the Duomo and Sforza Castle.

While technically not complete until the installation of the central doors in 1965, the Duomo was begun in 1386, a similar time period to similar huge cathedrals elsewhere in Italy. Unlike the Duomo in Florence, it is a true gothic construction of bare stone, with ornamentation in the form of statuary and spires. But it is the sheer number of those that sets the building apart. As mentioned before, there are 135 spires done on several levels, and an astounding 3,400 statues. What is more, all of the statues are – supposedly – unique! Add 150 gargoyles, and 55 stained glass windows totaling more than 37,000 square feet, and you have one of the truly incredible and unique buildings in the world.

A visit begins in the Piazza del Duomo facing the front facade, and with a walk around the exterior. In some light, the building gleams almost white, though a closer examination reveals patterns of pinks, greens, and grays in the stone. It is worth spending several hours to watch the Duomo in changing light, from the white of the afternoon to a deep orange-pink during golden hour, to an almost two-dimensional bright white in nighttime, lit up by LEDs.

It can be hard to find a focal point when looking at the Duomo of Milan. The base of the cathedral is almost blocky, while the top is nothing but ridges and valleys created by the spires and other stone ornamentation. And the statues are everywhere, on every level. It is dizzying, overwhelming, and awe-inspiring, requiring frequent stops for a closer examination.

Many of the features were added in later centuries, as construction was intermittent for nearly 600 years. The main spire, topped with a golden Madonna and reaching about 320 feet, was not added until 1762, for instance.

The rooftop terraces offer a unique and close-up view of many of these amazing features. For €16, I climb the stairs on my own (a slightly more expensive ticket includes an elevator) and am able to enter the cathedral itself afterward. Even early in the morning – I arrive around 10am – it is crowded, and I find myself quickly frustrated with tourists ignoring the experience of anyone around them in order to dominate the best views for their posed Instagram shots, complete with designer gowns. (Don’t be one of those people.) But even they cannot take away from the majesty of the Duomo of Milan. I wind my way along one side terrace, then up another stairway to the top roof, where I sit in the sun and enjoy the view, as well as letting it sink in that I am actually sitting on top of one of the most recognizable buildings in the world.

The route then winds back down the other side terrace (this one is currently under construction from the constant effort it takes to keep the building clean and safe), before journeying back down into the cathedral itself. And again, I am taken aback by the beauty.

Huge stone columns line the cathedral, with seemingly almost as many statues on the inside as there are outside. In addition, there are bas reliefs with another couple hundred figures, elaborate marble tombs, paintings, and beautiful floors.

And oh, the stained glass windows! Behind the altar are three huge windows, each one segmented into dozens of individual scenes. Overwhelming is the theme of the Duomo, which makes sense as it is the third largest (by square footage) church in the world. (Note: if you only wish to see the interior, tickets are roughly €6. I do think the terraces are worthwhile, though.)

As a visit to the Duomo takes between an hour and three, depending on the speed at which one walks the roof and how much time one spends inside, it is necessary to pair this experience with another during a day in Milan. Fortunately, just down the pedestrian Via Dante from the Duomo sits Milan’s second mighty attraction: Sforza Castle.

Sforza Castle was built in the fifteenth century by the Sforza family, who dominated Milan as the Medici did Florence, both in politics of the republic and then as hereditary dukes. It is roughly square, with huge round towers at the corners, and a slender tower sitting above the main gate that faces toward the Duomo. Much of what is currently here is a reconstruction; the main tower exploded in 1521, and the entire castle was heavily damaged during World War Two bombing.

The castle courtyard is free to enter, and even walking through to visit the huge Parco Sempione behind is worthwhile, especially paired with a sandwich from Chiosco al Politico. The park is one of the city’s largest, with huge green spaces, museums, monuments, public events, and the Torre Branca observation tower.

Inside the castle are several museums. A couple are private, but the collection of the large Castle Museums can be visited with a single under €10 ticket. It features archaeological relics from Milan, art of the ducal family, frescoes from historic churches in the city, and even furniture and arms from the period. It is larger on the inside than it would seem from the outside, and can easily take two or three hours. (Note: one of the highlights of the Castle Museums is a room painted by Leonardo da Vinci while he was in Milan. That room is currently being restored, so it is only viewable from a corner.)

But it is the view of that central tower, the Torre del Filarete, that brings most locals and tourists out on a pretty day. Whether from the courtyard, the park, or a fountain on the “front” side, it is easy to see why Sforza Castle is one of the emblems of Milan, and a worthy seat of power for those who ruled it for centuries.

For hundreds of years, Milan was independent. During this time, the city’s two most iconic buildings were constructed, and a visit to Milan should include both. The impressive Sforza Castle stands an impressive brick monument to the city’s ruling family, and the mighty Duomo as a glimmering beacon to gothic elegance. A cathedral and a castle. This is the best of Milan.

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