“You’re spending a full week in Milan? But there’s nothing to see there.” That was the common refrain from friends and family when I finalized my Italian itinerary, finishing with a week in Milan, Italy’s second largest city and its economic powerhouse. Sure, people conceded that the Duomo was worth visiting, and maybe even Sforza Castle (click here to read about these two amazing sights), but after a day to do those, the general consensus was that I’d be bored, lacking for things to see and do. Well, as I sit here on my final afternoon in Milan before flying to Copenhagen in the morning, they were wrong.

Sure, Milan doesn’t have as many truly world-class sights as other cities in Europe or even in Italy. But my week here was filled with some wonderful experiences. And yes, I would even come back to see some of the things I missed (like da Vinci’s Last Supper, which needs reservations way in advance).

My joyful Milan adventure really started my first day. Walking between Sforza Castle and the Duomo down Via Dante, I was reminded of Vienna. The buildings are in a similar style, and fronted by cafes and shops full of tourists and locals. And then it hit me. Until 1848, Milan was under Austrian control. So it makes sense that the city’s 18th and 19th century core is in a similar style.

Austrian rule is perhaps best exemplified by the magnificent opera house, La Scala. Entry is pricy at €12, and includes only a small view of the empty theatre from a box and a museum that is overcrowded with tour groups, so if you want to visit, it might be worth spending the additional money to just see a show. Milan is the center for Italian opera, with the likes of Verdi and Puccini debuting most of their works here. The interior of the theatre is classy in red velvet, with level after level of box seats. With the way the Austrian royal family and nobility funded composers, it is no wonder Milan is the home of such a wonderful opera house.

Music isn’t the only art form with a home in Milan. Art museums are all over the city, especially in the center. Finding myself with a few extra hours, I pop into Museo Poldi Pezzoli for an eclectic collection of paintings, watches and clocks, armaments, and furniture. My favorite room is the Dante Study, but the museum’s highlight is Portrait of a Young Woman by Pollaiuolo, the profile of which is the museum’s logo. (Alternatively I could have visited Pinacoteca di Brera or the Ambrosian Library and museum, two highly regarded outlets. And these are barely scratching the surface of the Milan museum scene.)

After a day wandering Milan’s center, you’ll need food. Lombardy, this part of Italy, is known for its risotto, and Milanese risotto is bright yellow with saffron. I try two different risottos at Il Cantanone, just a block from the Duomo, the traditional and one with lemon and mint, both paired with meat dishes. Delicious! Or for a different take on rice, try Riso e Latte for their milk-based rice. One is made with smoked cheese, hazelnuts, and beets, giving it a Pepto-like shade of pink.

Food in Milan is a bit on the expensive side compared to Rome or even Florence, but there are some great bargains to be found. Happy hour specials are all over at the Naviglio area, the place in Milan’s southwest where two canals that bring water from the Po river system join in a man-made lake. (The canals were designed by Leonardo da Vinci himself, so there is historic value as well.) Or grab a thick slice of pizza at Spontini near the Duomo. One regular piece will fill you up for around €8.

While no city will ever top Rome in terms of churches (click here to see my favorites), Milan has a couple other than the Duomo I can recommend. First, near Sforza Castle, step into Chiesa di San Maurizio. It is called the Sistine Chapel of Milan, and while that comparison is a bit unfair to any place, it is somewhat accurate. Every surface is painted in amazing color and detail. Or swing past the twelfth century Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio for some great towers and the burial places of a number of saints.

Of course, for many, Milan is one of the top destinations in the world for fashion. I myself am a walking advertisement for Target, so the city’s trendy vibe is one I definitely do not add to. But I am here for the tail end of Milan Fashion Week, and some events are open to the public. Just steps from the Duomo, I pop into a show on sustainable fashion. I don’t think I could pull off a single outfit on display, but it’s fun to look!

Speaking of looking, if you enjoy trendy fashion and the prices that match, wander the center and especially Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The amazing structure is part mall, part office building, part food court, and is stunning. Plus you can shop some of Italy’s top brands. (Just outside, there is even a Ferrari branded clothing line, where €1500 will almost get you a purse.) I window shop, not even wanting to go inside for fear of damaging something I can’t afford.

But the highlight of Milan is just walking around. Beautiful architecture abounds, there are a lot of trees, and the fashionable Milanese are a joy to watch. You can take an old tram if you want to, zip around on an efficient and comprehensive Metro system, or rent a bike if you want to use something other than your feet, but you’ll deprive yourself of the joy of discovering that one amazing building you otherwise wouldn’t see.

So, after a week in Milan, what are my takeaways? First and foremost, it is a pleasant place, one where quality of life seems to be high and people seem to be fairly happy. The city is beautiful – and very clean for such a big city – with good food, cool architecture, and some fairly fun history that goes back to Roman times. And yes, it even has some great things to see, despite apparently the popular opinion to the contrary. After a week, I can safely say that I’d happily come back to spend longer. And I wouldn’t run out of things to do.

Note: thank you to the press team at La Scala for hosting my visit. Next time I’ll manage to take in a show!

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