A journey to Istanbul (or beyond in Turkey) is most known for its history, culture, or natural beauty. After all, this is where so many empires have held their seats. But the food here in Istanbul is also worth an exploration. Turkish cuisine may not be the broadest in the world, but over five days here, I can say that everything I tried – and I attempted not to repeat dishes as best as I could – was really good, and some were even insanely excellent.
So what makes up Turkish food, and what should you try to find and sample when you are here? This is just a brief guide to some of my personal favorites, with an acknowledgment that this is both highly subjective and incomplete, as the cuisine spans more than I was able to eat in a fairly brief time.
Kebab
When you think of Turkish food, this is probably what first comes to mind. But kebab actually refers to a fairly wide range of grilled meat or vegetables, served in a variety of ways.
The basic is shish kebab, which is grilled cubes of meat on a skewer. (It can also be vegetarian, with tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant being most common.) You’ll generally find chicken, beef, and lamb shish kebab, with prices going from lower to higher in that order. The meat is marinated first, so it will have some inherent flavor, but the majority of the taste comes from the beautiful grill char.
Doner kebab is thinly sliced and marinated meat, typically beef. It is cooked in a huge tower on a turning spit, but served loose, as it will be shaved from that communal pile, for lack of a better term. (Unlike German döner, doner in Turkey is not served piled into bread, but on a plate with accompaniments.) Another take on doner is iskander, which is doner served with yogurt and butter; note that Turkish butter is a thing and it is awesome. This is my preferred method, unless I am getting doner in a wrap to go.
Kebab can also be ground meat done on a skewer. Adana kebab is spiced ground beef done this way. It is a bit sweet and a bit spicy (mild by most standards but Turkish food is normally not spicy hot in any way) and super juicy. It will come as a long log.
Finally, there is testi kebab, which is cubes of meat and vegetables in a sauce cooked in a clay pot over coals. At most restaurants it will be brought out table side with much fanfare as the server stokes the coals, then opens the pot with a flourish before pouring the contents into a hot bowl at your seat.
All of these varieties of kebab are generally served with flatbread (a huge one you’ll tear apart that comes to the table puffed up), rice pilaf, onions, and grilled tomatoes and peppers. You’ll take some meat and some bread and make your own sort of taco with it, piling on onions and – if provided – yogurt or chili sauce.
Other protein
Of course, meat (and fish) can also be prepared not on skewers. Kofte are Turkish meatballs, though they are generally oblong in shape. Lamb shank is huge here, as is fish, although it is often served whole so watch out for bones.
If you are vegetarian and looking for something with more protein, try hellim (or halloumi) cheese. This firm cheese is grilled or griddled, and then served with bread and accompaniments almost like kebab. It is one of my personal favorite things to eat.
Other Food
A couple other things to try. First, a traditional Turkish meal often begins with soup. Lentil soup is especially prevalent here. Just note it is thinner than what you’d have at home, although delightful.
Turkish pide is bread, but can also be filled kind of like pizza. Try it with minced or stewed beef and cheese.
Breakfast
A traditional Turkish breakfast is bread (look for the ones sort of banana shaped with sesame seeds), cheese, vegetables, and sometimes sausage or eggs. It is similar to most eastern Mediterranean breakfast spreads.
But for a different take, try menemen. This delight is eggs, cheese, and perhaps vegetables or meat cooked in a mixture of Turkish butter and tomato. Served with ever-present flatbread, it is wonderful!
Beverages
Let’s start with Turkish coffee. Think of it as sweetened espresso without the filter. It is strong. It is thick. It is gritty. Let it settle a bit before drinking and don’t slurp the “mud” at the bottom of the cup.
My preference in Turkey is tea. Traditional Turkish tea is caffeinated, and fairly highly so. But apple or pomegranate tea (pomegranate is my favorite) is not. Either way it will be served in a glass with sugar cubes on the side. (If you want to buy tea, visit the Egyptian Bazaar – also known as the Spice Bazaar. You can take vacuum sealed pouches home with you. It isn’t cheap; pomegranate tea ran me about $60 per 100 grams. But it is the best herbal tea I’ve ever found anywhere.)
While a Muslim country, Turkey allows alcohol, and actually has a decent wine industry. If you are having a nice meal and want wine, that will be available at many restaurants.
Sweets
Sweet shops are all over Istanbul, seemingly on every block. These serve mainly two staples: baklava and Turkish delight. Baklava in Turkey is made almost exclusively with pistachios rather than walnuts, and while I like that better, I still find it overly sweet. But it’s a necessity to have a piece or two, especially as they come in so many shapes and sizes!
Turkish delight is a sweet made with fruit and nuts. There are two main sorts. The white ones have a marshmallow texture. The colored ones are made with gelatin. They can come with or without nuts, but sans allergy, go for it with. Shops range from average to outstanding. Hafiz Mustafa is a chain that I can recommend.
If you are dining out and want dessert, I have a couple other recommendations. Kunefe is made with shredded filo dough and mozerella cheese, with sweet syrup. It sounds weird but it’s divine. Or try katmer, a take on baklava but much less sweet!
Fine Dining
On my last night in Istanbul, I was lucky enough to visit Turk Fatih Tutak, the city’s first two Michelin star restaurant. Everything I was served (close to fifteen courses in all) was sourced locally in Turkey, and based on traditional Turkish recipes, though obviously elevated. The restaurant is about a half hour north of the tourist center, but definitely worth the taxi fare and – by American or European standards – reasonable bill of roughly $150 per person.
Highlights were a beef dumpling with brown butter and yogurt, lamb layered with fat, onions, and mushrooms, and bread served with a blend of three butters and honey. Add a kitchen tour with three desserts served directly from the pastry chef, and it was a three hour experience I will cherish forever. (Thank you to TRT writer Dan for treating me!)
Turkish cuisine isn’t something I could live on exclusively. But it is much more diverse than I had expected, and everything I had while in Istanbul was good, great, or even better. When you come, make sure to try a variety of Turkish treats!
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