Not to be confused with Cartagena, Spain (though it is named after the Spanish city) Cartagena, Colombia is a vibrant large city on the Caribbean coast of South America. For many Americans, it is a cruise stop, either before or after a Panama Canal sailing. But in recent years, with the stability of Colombia as a whole, Cartagena has become a destination in and of itself.
If you enjoy beautiful Caribbean water, great food, and a truly stunning old colonial core, Cartagena might be the destination you are looking for. This guide will try to help you plan your perfect vacation to Cartagena, or even just to make the most out of your single day stop on your cruise itinerary. Be sure to click the links throughout the article to read more in-depth stories about specific aspects of what makes Cartagena awesome.
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Getting There
For many of you, you’ll arrive by cruise ship. The terminal where most dock seems like a bit over a mile walk to the old city (where most things you’ll want to see are), so you might be better off taking a cab to make the most of your day, or booking a tour. (Note: I am not even positive you can walk in and out of the port facility, so make sure you ask if that’s something you want to do.)
If you fly into Cartagena’s Rafael Nunez Airport, there is good and bad news. The good news: the airport is tiny (the international side is just one big room with seating, a few shops, and all gates just doors from here out to the tarmac) and a short and cheap taxi or Uber into the central parts of the city. The bad news: it can get crowded, both in terms of seats for departing passengers and in the lines to clear customs on arrival. There is an additional VIP arrival “experience” you can book through First Class Cartagena. Mine was graciously provided to me by Corpoturismo Cartagena, and entailed someone meeting me as I entered the terminal, and escorting me to a separate customs station where someone came out and opened it just for me. By my estimation, it saved me roughly an hour in line. (They also helped to make sure I got into the right taxi or Uber, and off to my lodging.)
For such a small airport, there are a large number of flights into Cartagena. From the U.S., American, Delta, Spirit, and JetBlue all fly in, or a single stop on Avianca or Copa. (There’s even a daily flight from Amsterdam on KLM.) So here’s hoping the city expands the existing airport or breaks ground on a new one.
Getting Around
Let’s talk a bit about the layout of the part of Cartagena you’ll be in as a visitor. At the north-center of our map (the rough orientation, though it’s a bit on the diagonal) is the old colonial walled city. To the left of that (southwest) is Bocagrande, home to most of the large American brand hotels. To the right of the old city (northeast) is Marbella, the next iteration of Bocagrande – in progress it seems – and where I stayed in an Airbnb. To the south of the old city is the hipster area of Getsemani, flanked on its south by the San Felipe fortress. You will likely not leave these basic areas.
Other than the fortress itself, this area is flat. To walk from one side (Marbella) to the other (Bocagrande) is about 90 minutes, or a $10 Uber. Within the old city, nothing is more than a 10-15 minute walk, and a horse drawn carriage (just not on Sundays) is your best option to get off your feet.
Sidewalks can have some potholes (as can streets), and traffic can be bad and hard to dodge, so exercise caution when walking around. Also realize that when taxis (or motorcycles) honk at you on the sidewalk, they are asking if you want a lift. Just politely indicate in the negative.
What to Do
If you are a cruise passenger and you only have a single day in Cartagena, I would spend it wandering the old city. Appreciate the architecture, the flowers, the balconies, the walls, and the churches. (You don’t even have to go inside any of them; just wander the narrow streets.) This colonial core is absolutely stunning, and with only a few precious hours, I feel you’re doing yourself a disservice by trying to see any of the specific museums or anything like that. (Click here to read more about Cartagena’s old city.)
If you have a bit longer, you can start to see more specific things. The San Felipe fortress is absolutely worth a couple hours, though it is a steep climb up. (The view is worth it.)
If the beach is your thing, the public beaches in both Marbella and Bocagrande are pretty nice, especially as far as city beaches go. Or you can take a day trip – or spend a night – on the Rosario Islands off the coast for some more pristine sand and water. (Click here to read more about the Rosario Islands.)
I’ll talk about it more in the What to Eat section below, but you absolutely want to make sure to experience Colombian coffee while here. Cafe San Alberto in the old city offers guided coffee tastings of the country’s most award-winning brand. I highly recommend that experience. (Click here to read more about Colombian coffee in Cartagena.)
Sunset is absolutely a thing to plan into your schedule. I have a couple specific recommendations. First, join the crowds on the walls around Cafe del Mar. (The cafe itself is loud and overpriced, but use it to orientate yourself since it faces sunset.) Or grab a table at El Muelle in Bocagrande. Good food, great drinks, and my favorite sunset in Cartagena. (Plus a lovely beach with jet ski rentals if you enjoy such things.)
If you want a fun day trip from Cartagena, a ton of tour companies on Viator do trips to the Totumo Mud Volcano. It is exactly what it sounds like, volcanically heated mud you bathe in. It was unique, refreshing, and thoroughly icky for someone like me who hates being dirty. But I’m still glad to have gone. (Click here to read more about the mud volcano.) Or take a trip to Palenque, a city founded by escaped slaves, which I hear is a terrific experience, though I didn’t go personally so I can’t speak to it with any specifics.
Where to Stay
If you use the basic layout I gave above, you’ll want to stay in those areas. The major hotels are mainly in Bocagrande, with some boutique ones within the old city itself. Airbnb apartments can be found both in Bocagrande and Marbella.
Getsemani is lovely, and also home to some hotels and hostels, but I’ve heard mixed things about safety in parts of the neighborhood at night, so I might avoid that as your home base if you can help it, or at least do some more thorough research on safety before booking.
What to Eat
The food here is good. It is very good. It is not super vegetarian friendly, so be aware of that if you are a vegetarian or vegan foodie. (Pescatarian is absolutely fine, though, given the amazing seafood.)
You’ll start your morning with coffee, in all likelihood. If you didn’t click the coffee link above (which you should), some of my favorite cups in the old city are found at Abaco (a cute bookstore), Epica, and the aforementioned Cafe San Alberto. But it’s all good and you’ll probably find your own favorite spot. Just let me know what it is!
Let’s talk ceviche (raw marinated fish) for a moment. Colombian ceviche is less spicy than its Peruvian counterpart as a general rule. The most traditional is made with a mixture of fish and other seafood, and done with coconut milk and onions. My personal favorite was a salmon ceviche with passion fruit at Tomillo in the old city. (The line is much longer and the prices higher at Anthony Bourdain’s favorite La Cevicheria just down the street, and the reviews not as good, so I skipped that one.)
Arepas can be found everywhere. They are basically a cornmeal cake that is stuffed with meat, veggies, cheese, or egg. While you can pay to have them at nice restaurants (and I did), the best are from little carts in the old city. Arepas con huevo are filled with meat and egg, and fried right there in front of you. If there is a crowd of locals, they are good. You’ll likely have to push your way to the front of the mob to order, and pay only in cash, but try one or five. And put the sauces that will be passed around the crowd on them, whatever they are. Remember, you are unlikely to get sick from a popular place like this. People don’t stay in business poisoning their neighbors.
If you want one more way to experience seafood, seafood rice is traditional here. It is basically mixed seafood in coconut rice (the most popular side dish everywhere in Cartagena). My favorite was at my sunset dinner at El Muelle in Bocagrande.
Finally, we come to alcoholic drinks, as this is a tropical destination. Find happy hour deals, especially in Getsemani, where a two for one special can generally net you passion fruit margaritas for less than $5 per. The rum punch at El Muelle is to die for, or get a drink at El Arsenal, known for its rums. (Dinner there is also good.) If you don’t drink alcohol, coconut lemonade might be my newest favorite thing.
Other Useful Information
Let’s talk about the weather. It can be very hot and humid, regardless of whether it is dry or wet. I visited in January, the coolest month, though it is made cooler by some very strong winds that whipped up sand on the beach, making that a somewhat less pleasant experience. And even then it was routinely over 90 Fahrenheit and humidity in the 70-85% range.
For some older Americans, they will never be able to get over the image of Colombia as the cocaine capital of the world. I want to put that at ease. Colombia is, here in 2024, one of the most stable democracies in the Americas. Cities are safe, at least within the tourist cores. Cartel violence is not a thing anymore. And Colombians have worked hard to make this the case. Let’s recognize that.
When it comes to safety, just exercise normal caution. Street vendors might be intimidating, but can be politely declined. Street rappers – seemingly everywhere – are a different story, with some trying to distract tourists while their pockets are picked. Be aware, don’t make eye contact if you can help it, and have a hand on your bag or pocket.
If you are someone who wants to shop, there are a few things you might want to check out here. First, coffee. Bring it all back! Second, Colombia is the emerald capital of the world, and there are stores everywhere with what seems like decent prices to my terrible eye. Third, local art is super cool. I came home with both artwork for the wall and coffee for the French press.
Finally, just a quick note on noise. Cartagena is a noisy and chaotic city, as so many in Latin America are. Even Los Angeles seemed quiet to me when I returned home. Try your best to appreciate the sounds as part of the experience, even if at times they might be a distraction, especially first thing in the morning.
Conclusion
After two weeks spent in the Caribbean sun, I can safely say I loved Cartagena. It has made me want to explore more of Colombia, and even just to return here to absorb more of the beauty and culture. I hope this guide has inspired you to plan your own trip, or even just taught you a little more about a cool place.
A huge thank you once more to Corpoturismo Cartagena for helping me to plan my trip, and for sponsoring several of the amazing experiences I had. I am so grateful for the confidence that my writing is worth that investment.
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