Editor’s note: Mesa Verde is indeed a gem. I’ve only been once, and only for a few hours on a whim – I had intended to remain at Canyonlands in Utah but decided to leave early and make this a bypass – but I loved it. You will, too, especially after reading this piece by Sam! For more of his writing, click here to visit his index page.

I have written about how unbelievably lucky I am to live in Utah with its mighty five national parks. However, beyond our five parks, there are other national parks that are just beyond our borders, like Great Basin National Park, and even Yellowstone is only a few hours away from the Utah border. Being a lover of ruins though, one of my top picks is the place just over the Utah-Colorado line that is home to more indigenous ruins than anywhere else in the United States, Mesa Verde National Park and the surrounding area. Latin America is abundant with pre-colonial ruins, places like Mexico’s Chichen Itza, Guatemala’s Tikal, or Peru’s Machu Picchu. However, the United States’s response to these archaeological treasures would be Mesa Verde, a bit under three hours southeast of Moab, Utah, which is the home to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks (see my article on these places to combine it with your Mesa Verde adventure!). This land has been inhabited by people for over 10,000 years with archaeological finds to prove it, including bones found from hunted animals that went extinct at the end of the last ice age. This is the home of the Anasazi people, who are the ancestors of the modern Pueblo people, lived in what is today the Four Corners area of the United States and rose to particular prominence roughly 1500 years ago for being phenomenal basket makers that allowed them to store food and gather and cook seeds more efficiently.

Northwest of Mesa Verde is the Canyon of the Ancients, and also Hovenweep National Monument, the latter of which spans across both Utah and Colorado. With these locations being outside of the national park, they are far less crowded and offer splendid hiking where I could take my dogs. At Hovenweep National Monument, a great spot to visit is Hovenweep Castle. Despite the name, it is not actually a castle, but rather likely a community center or massive home of the Anasazi people in the 13th century. Be weary though that there is not much shade in this spot so be sure to wear a hat and drink lots of water.

The Canyon of the Ancients nearby has over 8000 archaeological ruins including great pueblos. There are numerous hikes that provide great views. One of the more interesting places to go is to the Lowry Pueblo. This large pueblo contained 40 rooms and 8 kivas, which are circular rooms that were used for meetings or ritualistic purposes that you will find at almost every dwelling, and was inhabited by 100 people in the 11th century. One of the kivas at Lowry Pueblo is 50 feet in diameter, the largest in the area. The Lowry Pueblo shows a rare combination of two cultures, the Anasazi people and the Chaco culture, as reflected in its architecture. Much like you will see at Mesa Verde, getting to experience the Lowry Pueblo gives an idea of the importance of community to the Anasazi people.

Mesa Verde stands apart for a couple of reasons: its vast array of well-preserved cliff dwellings (more than 600) and its natural beauty. In 1978, Mesa Verde was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mesa Verde means in Spanish “Green Table” and it is clear how it got this name. Soaring to a peak of 8500 feet, Mesa Verde is a mountain in the midst of a valley with a flat top to it and covered in trees. In driving up Mesa Verde, you will take roads that spiral up the mountain, providing fabulous views with sweeping overlooks over the Montezuma Valley like the one at Navajo Canyon. We went to Mesa Verde in July and with it being peak tourism season the guided hikes from park rangers (some of the hikes require escort from the rangers to preserve the cliff dwellings) had been booked out weeks in advance, so book ahead. If, like us, you did not book a guided tour, do not worry, there are still other great places that you can go, including the Step House at Wetherill Mesa, which is only open from Memorial Day until Labor Day. The hike to Step House cliff dwelling is a simple 3/4 of a mile roundtrip and provides an up-close visit to be able to walk through ancient homes and kivas, as well as go up wooden step ladders to the different levels of the dwelling. There is a ranger located on site at Step House who will answer any questions you may have.

The main part of Mesa Verde National Park is the Chapin Mesa, which is home to an archaeological museum and old buildings dating back to the 1920s for the administrative headquarters of the park. While here, take the Mesa Top Loop drive, a six mile loop road that allows you to see the best of the best of Mesa Verde from the top of the mesa. There are places to pull over to see the cliff dwellings and short, simple hikes to better viewing areas. Some of the cliff dwellings that you will want to make sure to see are the Spruce Tree House, which is the best preserved cliff dwelling, the beautiful archway over the Oak Tree House, and the most famous of them all, the Cliff Palace.

The Cliff Palace is the largest cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde and dates back 800 years until it was abandoned in 1300, presumably due to drought. The Cliff Palace contains 150 rooms, 23 kivas, paintings inside the rooms, and the tallest structure in Mesa Verde, standing at 26 feet. The Cliff Palace is 215 feet wide, 90 feet deep, and 60 feet in layered height. Like the other dwellings, it is nestled under cliffs and is protected from the elements as a result.

A visit to Mesa Verde will truly leave you astounded at the ancient cultures that inhabited Colorado, but to see some of modern Colorado, you also do not have to journey much further. The closest city to Mesa Verde is Cortez, Colorado, a town of 9,000 people that honestly does not have a whole lot other than a bunch of Mexican restaurants (I recommend La Casita!). However, beyond Cortez are a couple of gems. To the north is the small town of Dolores, with under 1000 people, which is where we based ourselves. We stayed at the Dolores River RV Resort and Cabins, which, as the name implies, is a place where you can stay in an RV or rent one of the quaint cabins there. The grounds are covered with trees, there are many deer nearby, and the Dolores River runs right through the grounds. They have short hikes and fishing ponds located on site as well. Just down the street is the EsoTerra Ciderworks, a family owned and operated cidery that also has great food, a charming barn, and a gravel yard where you can eat or play games like cornhole, and really capture the feeling of summer in the great outdoors.

The most charming city in the area though has to be Durango. At 25,000 people, Durango may possibly be the best small town in America. It is surrounded by mountains, green trees, and the Animas River cuts right through the town. Durango has an old-timey feel to it as the town rose to prominence in the late 1800s as a railroad town for silver and gold transportation from the Colorado mines. Even now, you can take an old steam engine from Durango to Silverton that winds through the mountains on a scenic pass. In the winter, there are nearby ski slopes at Purgatory, but during the summer, the town really comes alive with the restaurants taking up a lane of traffic for makeshift patios for outdoor seating. Due to the proximity of the national park and the fact that Durango has cooler temperatures thanks to its elevation, summer is busy and it is advisable to get reservations for the restaurants. During the summertime, listening to live music while exploring Durango’s shops or sitting and having a glass of wine is truly one of the top American summer experiences.

Whether you have a family and want to explore all the local outdoor activities and parks or if you want a romantic getaway in Durango with plenty of nearby daytime things to do, Southwestern Colorado and a trip to Mesa Verde is one of the best experiences you will have in the United States.

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