Few things are better than a stroll along the Thames on a pretty day. With blue skies and a temperature in the low 70s Fahrenheit, this is London at its June finest. The south side of the river, especially, is wonderful, and full of amazing things to see and do. My day here is focused on perhaps the best place to eat in a city full of incredible food: Borough Market.
Borough Market in London’s Southwark represents the cultural mix that makes this city so special. Everything from Venezuelan arepas to Iraqi kubba (fried stuffed balls of potato or what seems like cornmeal but probably isn’t) to traditional English fare can be found here. There are some stalls selling takeaway – although there is little seating for those who want to eat straightaway – and some full sit-down restaurants, in addition to produce stalls and more cheese shops than I can remember seeing anywhere. It is dizzying, made more so by the crowds queueing for their favorites, although lines tend to move efficiently.

The first mention of a market in Southwark, just on the southern end of London Bridge, is from 1276, though the odds are that it existed for at least a century or two prior to that. The current set of buildings (pretty much open air with roofs overhead) date to the 1850s, although it is only in the late 1990s that Borough Market became a trendy place for specialty dining.

Of course, it is impossible to eat everything here, or even to have a reasonable sampling. Being in a group of three, it allows for a few more options if we are all adventurous and split food in a friendly manner. We are, and we do, so it is off to the races. Our lunch begins with JUMA and the aforementioned Iraqi dumplings. Two have lamb with difference spices; two are vegan. One can purchase a sample pack with one of each, so the only issue is dividing four dumplings among three stomachs. We manage to do so, and are thrilled with the choice. (My favorite might be the mushroom one, with a sauce on the side of mango and pickled peppers that is bright and acidic.)

Next is the seafood course. My companions wait in the long queue for a serving of paella from a huge pan, while I hit up Shellseekers for fresh oysters. Both are good but the oysters are better, and with three different sauces/mignonettes available, we each get a different flavor. Mine is the sweet and sour, which is delightful.

Finally, we stop by Ginger Pig for a traditional sausage roll. It is hot, juicy, messy, and delicious. I gaze fondly back at the countless stalls that I didn’t get to taste, sigh, and decide it is time to walk a bit of this off.

Southwark itself was incorporated as a borough of London in the 12th century. With London Bridge being the main approach into the city across the Thames from the south, it became a natural extension of London itself. As London expanded, Southwark became a hub for a number of aspects of the city, from theatre – the Globe and Rose theatres of Shakespearean fame were both here – to prisons like the Clink, to transportation with the opening of the London and Greenwich Railway in 1836.

The most easy to spot attraction in Southwark is Southwark Cathedral. The first church on this spot was constructed in 1106, but much of the modern building only dates to 1897 or so, and it wasn’t until 1905 that the church was elevated to a cathedral. Best known for its stained glass window featuring images of Shakespeare, the cathedral is a beautiful gothic construction. I am not able to see the window since a service is taking place and I don’t want to be that guy walking to the front – even along the side – to take photos, so I just listen to the choir for a few minutes.

After food and a church, it is time for a drink, and Southwark has the perfect spot: the George. With such a beautiful day, the outdoor seating here is a great place to sit for a while and admire one of the oldest coaching inns surviving, dating to 1542. It was apparently one of the favorite haunts of Charles Dickens, and that’s reasonably good company to keep. The building is in such good condition, in fact, that it is part of the National Trust, and I smile thinking that only in the UK is a pub part of their national parks equivalent. A cider in the sun is perfect before continuing to stroll.

My first photo op is at the Golden Hind, an exact replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship that circumnavigated the globe between 1577 and 1580. This version is supposedly fully seaworthy, but it sits in a dry dock, at least at the moment.

As mentioned above, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre was here. Built in 1599 and destroyed in 1642 by Puritans who considered the Bard heretical, it is perhaps the most storied theatre in history. In 1997, a near exact (as best as one can) replica was opened in a spot along the Thames near to where the original once stood. Being true to history, while still adhering to fire codes, was a twenty year project, but the result is the closest thing a Shakespeare lover can get to seeing a play in Elizabethan times.

My final stop here is at the Tate Modern. While modern art is not really my “thing,” this is a cool building just from an architectural standpoint. Built into what was originally the Bankside Power Station, this free museum holds one of the largest contemporary art collections in the world. But the highlights, to me, are the main turbine room and the observation deck.

London on a beautiful day is a treat. Add to it some amazing food, some cool sights, and a delightful walk, and a beautiful day spent in Southwark is especially rewarding.
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I learned so much! I didn’t know there was a National Trust pub and I definitely want to try the dumplings from JUMA one day.
Only in the UK, right?