Editor’s note: On my first trip to Japan, I didn’t like Kyoto. When I returned during my second Japan trip, I still didn’t like Kyoto. But it is, without question, home to some of the most stunning temples in all of Japan. TRT writer Sam, I’m thrilled to say, had a much better Kyoto experience than I did, and here gives you his highlights. For more of Sam’s writing, click here to visit his index page.
If you want to go to the most exciting city in the world, go to Tokyo. However, if you want to visit the heart and soul of the Land of the Rising Sun, spend your time not in the futuristic metropolis of the modern capital, but rather the ancient capital of Kyoto. Kyoto, with a metropolitan area of 3.8 million people and 1.4 million in the city proper, was the imperial (not necessarily political) capital of Japan from 794 CE until 1868. When walking in Kyoto, you will see women walking in kimonos and you might catch a glimpse of an authentic Japanese geisha passing by on her way to meet a client. In fact, in Kyoto, you can even attend a geisha show to see the culture and ancient customs of these kimono-clad women with their elaborate hairstyles and chalk white makeup as they perform song, dance, and music among other arts. Monks still walk the street performing the takuhatsu ritual of calling out chants hoping for the giving of alms. Kyoto is such a cultural gem that during World War II, it had been heavily considered as a location for the Americans to drop an atomic bomb or at the very least intense destruction like Tokyo, but the U.S. Secretary of War personally intervened and insisted that Kyoto must be spared destruction because of its cultural significance and out of fear that damaging Kyoto would permanently embitter the Japanese people against America. Indeed, with 2000 temples, Kyoto has so much to see and do.
Perhaps Kyoto’s most significant monument (though this is arguable) is Kiyomizu-dera Temple, one of 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city (many of the temples that I will be mentioning are listed as such). Located on the side of Mt. Otowa, legend has it that a living incarnation of the god Kannon was found here in the 8th century, when the Buddhist temple was founded. The building today with its prominent main hall dates to the 16th century CE. The temple is unique not only with its large platform and hall, ponds and waterfalls, and red pagoda, but also its spectacular views of Kyoto. As this is a major tourist site, I recommend hiking up to it early in the morning to beat the crowds. The walk up and then back down takes you through a charming traditional Japanese neighborhood with lovely shops. Though there are many incredible attractions throughout Japan, it says something that when the vote was held for the new 7 Wonders of the World in 2006, 21 sites globally were nominated, and Kiyomizu-dera, while it did not win, was the sole nominee from Japan.
Giving Kiyomizu-dera a run for its money is Kinkaku-ji, meaning “The Temple of the Golden Pavilion,” as well as its sister temple in Kyoto, Ginkaku-ji, “The Temple of the Silver Pavilion.” Both temples are Zen Buddhist temples and in the Zen style are oases of peace and harmony. Kinkaku-ji was constructed at the end of the 14th century CE and has a strolling garden that circles a pond. The pond is filled with rocks that emerge from it, and foot bridges, and is supposed to represent the meeting of heaven and earth. Most famously, in the pond is a three story temple that is painted in bright gold leaf. Sadly, the original temple was destroyed in an arson attack in 1950, but it was then rebuilt, and symbolically has a statue of a bronze phoenix on top of it. The temple was designed so that when the sun hits the gold leaf, it not only illuminates, but creates a reflection of the temple in the pond.
Ginkaku-ji was constructed about a century after Kinkaku-ji, in 1490. There is also a pond and Zen garden at Ginkaku-ji but it appears differently than Kinkaku-ji. Ginkaku-ji has a greater focus on moss, forests, and a rock garden, and its temple is not directly on the water but off it. The temple was restored in 2008, but controversially the silver lacquer that gave the temple its name was not reapplied, causing the reason for its name to be less obvious than Kinkaku-ji.
Though it is easy to get “templed-out” in Kyoto, these three, along with one other, are must-visits. That fourth temple that you must see is another Zen Buddhist one, Ryoan-ji. Ryoan-Ji was founded in 1450, and it is most famous for its Zen dry garden, which is perhaps the most notable one in Japan. Every day, the monks of the temple rake the sand, and visitors can sit and contemplate on a platform. There are 15 rocks of varying sizes in the garden, arranged in various clusters. However, what is fascinating about the garden is that the rocks are situated so that it is impossible to see all 15 from any single location, with at least one being hidden from view no matter what your perspective. With the chaos and sensory overload that can come with Japan, take some time to come, reflect and contemplate at this temple and think of how it is okay to sometimes be unable to see everything.
Finally, on the temple front, take time to visit the Nanzen-ji and Tenryu-ji Temples. Nanzen-ji was built in 1291 and rebuilt in 1909 after a fire; its gardens are registered as a Place of Scenic Beauty. The temple has a Sanmon, the most sacred type of temple in Zen Buddhism, which offers beautiful views from its balconies in a wonderfully crafted building. On the grounds of Nanzen-ji is an 1890 aqueduct, built to transport water from nearby Lake Biwa to the city, which is fun to explore.
Tenryu-ji was founded in 1345. This is another Zen Buddhist temple that offers a great ambiance and pond, as well as its Jizo statues, little statues that have red bibs that are the deities of babies and unborn children, offering them protection. These statues are often dressed in warm weather by mothers who have suffered a miscarriage or lost an infant. There is a network of sacred monasteries in Kyoto called “The Five Mountains”; and Nanzen-ji and Tenryu-ji are ranked first and second in the list.
Another of Kyoto’s world-renowned UNESCO sites is the Fushimi-Inari Shrine. Set in a forest, the Fushimi-Inari Shrine dates to 711 CE and is known for its collection of over 10,000 orange-red torii gates, many of which were donated over the centuries by Japanese businesses asking for a blessing or offering thanks for success. The entrances for the pathways are flanked by fox statues, with the fox being a godly messenger, with grains in its mouth. At times the torii pathways split into different directions. The most famous stretch is called the Senbon, which has 800 closely packed torii gates and gives the appearance of a bright orange-red tunnel as you walk through it. There are several shrines in the park, but the main shrine and worship hall dates back to 1499. Throughout the year, millions of pilgrims visit this site, including over two million for Japanese New Year each year.
Two other UNESCO sites in downtown Kyoto, not far from the modern 430 foot tall Kyoto Tower, are the To-ji Pagoda and the Nijo Castle. Before Kyoto Tower, To-ji Pagoda was the dominant building in town, having first been built in 796, then reconstructed in 1606 after an earthquake; standing at 180 feet high, the five story pagoda is the tallest in Japan. If you find yourself in Kyoto on the 21st day of the month, head to the To-ji Pagoda for a flea market.
The Nijo Castle was built in the 17th century by the Tokugawa Shogunate as their royal palace. The 68 acre complex contains multiple palaces such as the 36,000 square foot Ninomaru Palace, which is covered with fine works of art from the famous painting Kano school, and an abundance of gold leaf, giving its six buildings that make up the palace the status of National Treasure. Cross over the foot bridge that gives an overpass to a moat below to the imposing stone walls and explore this area that was once patrolled by samurai and forbidden to outsiders. Today, men dressed as traditional samurai still walk the grounds. As is standard in Japan, the grounds host beautiful gardens full of Japanese plum, maple, and cherry trees, and ponds with rock features.
Spend a day of your trip to Kyoto in the Arashiyama district on the western outskirts of town on the Oi River. This district has spectacular nature with rivers, mountains, and forests. Walk across the Togetsukyo (Moon Crossing) Bridge that spans the Oi River and offers beautiful views of the foliage, and hike a mile up Mount Arashi and you will find the Iwatayama Monkey Park, which is home to more than 170 wild macaques. The hike is beautiful and it is always fun to see monkeys, which are accustomed to people, and you are given opportunities to feed the monkeys during regulated feeding times at the park. There is an indoor area where you can watch the monkeys perch on a ledge and hand them food through a metal-netted window. Another must-do in Arashiyama near the Tenryu-ji Temple and Nonomiya Shinto shrine is the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. This is a natural bamboo forest and was one of the most enchanting walkways and forests that I visited in Japan, let alone the world. Finally, no trip to Arashiyama is complete without going on the Sagano Romantic Train Ride. The 25 mile train ride takes you around mountains and canyons, and through forests while following the Hozu River. On the ride, you will learn about Japanese history and culture and take in stunning scenery. I did this train ride during the spring and got to see beautiful cherry blossoms. While I am not one for often repeating experiences, I would love to return to Japan and do this train ride in different seasons as it is an equally beautiful, but completely different experience with snowy mountains in the winter and red and orange foliage in the autumn.
Finally, I would be remiss if I did not mention Kyoto’s phenomenal food scene. In fact, Kyoto has the third most Michelin starred restaurants (93) in the world after Tokyo and Paris, and one of the highest rates of such restaurants per capita. Though everywhere in Japan has great food, some of the best meals we had were in Kyoto. In Arashiyama there is a small sushi restaurant, Sushi Naritaya. When we went there for lunch, it was more than a two hour wait, which was enough time for us to put our name on the list, then go hike Mount Arashi and go to the monkey park and return right when our names were called. The sushi chefs prepare fresh, generous, and delicious cuts of sashimi that make this restaurant worth the wait. In Kyoto, there are numerous fine dining restaurants that serve you at the counter. In my travels, one of my most memorable meals was at Guilo Guilo Hitoshina (also known as Giro Giro Hitoshina), situated on the Takase River. This restaurant specializes in kaiseki cuisine, a Japanese multi-course meal on a set menu that combines taste, texture, appearance, and color in an art form. Finally, if you are a ramen lover, there are many great traditional ramen restaurants in Kyoto, where you order from a vending machine. In the neighborhood of Gion, where geisha shows often take place, we found the Musoshin Gion ramen restaurant, which was delicious.
I was able to do this jam-packed Kyoto itinerary in a few days, as I was trying to see the best of Japan in 10 days. However, should I return to Japan, I would love to spend a whole 5 or 6 days just in Kyoto. Though most people think of Tokyo when they think of Japan, to explore what Japan was and is today to its fullest, head to Kyoto instead and discover the heart of the nation.
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